PROJECT DETAILS
everything you need to know about my project
ORIGINAL PROJECT LEARNING GOALS AND OUTCOMES
My original project learning goals and outcomes were as follows:
Qualify for the AMGA SPI course
Complete the course by the end of August 2018
Practice and master the skills taught in the SPI class
Take the SPI exam towards the beginning of the Spring 2019 semester
Utilize my new skills at SUU Outdoors or a similar guiding company near Cedar City
My updated project learning goals and outcomes are as follows:
Review known skills from the “Single Pitch Manual” book
Practice these skills, and master them
Learn new skills from the “Single Pitch Manual” book
Practice these skills, memorize, and become efficient at them
Practice trad climbing skills by climbing at least 10 - 20 trad routes
Thereby, I would practice and hone the skills necessary for qualifying for the SPI course, in addition to becoming proficient at the skills taught in the actual course
PROJECT DESCRIPTION REVIEW
I had to look at the AMGA website to see the requirements to be accepted into the SPI course. I discovered that I needed to practice my trad climbing skills in order to be accepted into the course. I was then told that the “Single Pitch Manual” outlined all of the skills taught throughout the course. Once I had the book, I started off by practicing the skills I already knew at the climbing gym, my house, and at various crags. These skills were helpful, as they were the foundation of learning the skills I did not yet know.
Then, I began to learn the skills I did not know, utilizing the book as a manual. I learned these skills on the ground, practicing where I was safe.
I was also able to lead a handful of trad climbing routes, practicing the skill so I can one day be accepted into the SPI course.
PROJECT ACCOMPLISHMENTS
I have become proficient at the majority of the skills outlined in the book. There are still some systems that I can learn better at the actual course. However, I have learned most of the skills.
I have become a more able, confident trad climber.
I have learned that there are so many organizational skills needed to guide climbing efficiently. Operating rope systems demands a lot of time. They can suck away time like a black hole if you’re not careful. Therefore, the more time spent practicing different systems is critical! The more time spent practicing setting up a client’s rope system means less time when the actual guiding happens.
Proficiency at easier, more basic skills makes more complicated skills so much easier. Without those foundational skills: knots, rope organization, etc, more advanced skills would be lost to flubbed knots and tangled rope. Also, more advanced skills are basically just a series of linked together skills that combine to make an intricate system. Being able to practice these systems over and over helped me to see each of these systems for what they are: put together chains of simpler systems.
I am now confident that if I apply to take the SPI course, I would be accepted. I have all of the necessary requirements.
I am now more confident in mind that I would be able to soak in all of the skills being taught during the course. Instead of being overwhelmed by trying to process an extreme amount of new information during the three days of the course, I will now be able to soak in all the nuances that otherwise would go over my head. I can learn how to more efficiently set-up systems and pay attention to clients.
DELIVERABLES
Since starting my project, I have tried to keep track (at least in my head) of all of the skills I have practiced and mastered. (The numbers below are rough averages.) As you can see in the image above, I bookmarked all of the skills I have mastered (green) and those that I have tried and done but that need more work (blue). Here is the list:
Rope Coils
Backpacker's coil - 12
Mountaineer's Coil - 2
Knots, Bends, and Hitches
Overhand Loop - 30
Figure Eight-Follow Through - 75
Figure Eight Loop - 20
Directional Figure Eight - 5
Bowline - 2
Big Honking Knot (BHK) - 8
Double Loop Figure Eight - 2
Double Loop Bowline - 0
Water Knot - 15
Figure Eight Bend - 2
Double Fisherman's Knot - 50
Triple Fisherman's Knot - 12
Flat Overhand - 15
Clove Hitch - 75
Slip Hitch - 1
Munter Hitch - 15
Mule - 15
Tying Off a Tube Device with a Mule Knot - 5
Tying Off a Tube Device on the Carabiner Spine - 20
Prussik Knot - 25
Klemheist Knot - 50
Successful Lead Climbs
Trad Pitches Successfully Led - 10
Long Time Coming, Prophesy Wall, 5.10b (2 pitches)
Velvet Jones, Bowling Alley, 5.9+ (2 pitches)
Trump or Hillary, Three Peaks, 5.7+ (two separate routes here, multiple times each)
Double Cacti Crack, Pocket Rocks, 5.7 [bailed]
Rigel's Wall, Spring Creek Canyon, 5.10+ [ground fall 20 - 30 ft.]
Tail of the Cock, Kolob Canyons, 5.10a/b
Morning Dove, Three Peaks, 5.8
Sport Pitches Successfully Led - (a lot) possibly 35 to 45
Gravside - 25
The Running Scared Wall - 2
The Cone - 3
Namaste Wall - 6
Prophecy Wall - 2
Bowling Alley - 2
Protection and Anchoring
Anchors Built (Using Natural Protection) - 20
Anchors Built (Using Bolts) - 30
Cordelette - 50
Sliding X - 4
The Quad - 10
Advanced Rigging Systems & Institutional Anchors
Grigri on an institutional anchor - 1
Simple rope tether - 5
The Joshua Tree System - 2
The Lifeline System - 0
The Backside System - 1
Risk Management at the Crag
Coming with the responsibilities of a rock climbing guide, is effectively and safely managing the risks of climbing for his participants. I had willing friends whom I was able to teach, coach, and help up the many climbs we did together. Here is a list of skills I taught them:
Tying in to the rope
Vocal commands
Rope commands
Checking harness, hardware, anchor and other vital systems for safety
Basics of lead climbing (sport)
How to place trad gear
How to set up a STRADS anchor system
How to safely rappel
How to safely belay (lead and top rope)
How to manage rope on multi-pitch climbs
Top- or Base-Site Management for a Single Pitch
I led a lot of different climbs of varying technical skills, difficulties, and terrain with my friends of mixed climbing experience. These are some skills I used:
Lead belaying
Top rope belaying
Belaying from the top
Indirect belay
Direct belay
Rappeling
Rappel backup system
Rappel systems check: ABCDE
Tethering to the anchor
Basic Assistance and Rescue Skills
Climber Pickoff - 2
Belay Takeover - 10